Archive for August, 2008

One of the most important things to do with your new cat or kitten is to train it to use the litter box. In the wild, one of a cat’s more useful behaviors is to scratch a hole in some kind of soft medium to go to the toilet. This behavior is still strong in domesticated cats, which makes it easier to train them. When cats have access to a yard – especially one with a garden, they will often prefer to go outside. But if your cat is confined to the house or apartment, it is necessary to provide him with a litter tray or box to prevent puddles and other nasty things happening to your floor.

The litter tray should be wide and shallow, but with vertical sides. This will help to retain the medium when the cat is scratching and digging. It should be in a place where human traffic is at a minimum. The laundry is often the place chosen for the litter tray. Sand could be used in the tray, but commercial cat-litter is best due to its high absorbency. And cats seem to love using it.

If you have a new kitten, it is not too early to start training him to use the litter box immediately. As soon as he has finished drinking his milk, take him to the litter tray and set him down gently on the litter. It’s a good idea to feed him close to the litter tray at first, so he will know where it is. If you feed your new kitten in the kitchen and then carry him into the laundry to the litter tray, you cannot expect him to know his way into the laundry the next time round.

So feed the kitten next to the litter tray until the habit of using it is well established. After this, it will be possible to change the feeding place if desired. If the kitten does a puddle anywhere else but in the litter tray, be sure to clean it up with strong smelling disinfectant to completely remove the odor, otherwise kitty will simply follow his nose next time he wants to go.

Once you have placed the kitten onto the litter tray a few times, he will soon get the idea of what he is supposed to do. Cats and kittens are very easy to train to use a litter tray. Placing an attractive cover over the litter tray is a good idea, but make sure kitty knows how to use the tray without the cover first. Then you can cover it up and show him the way in.

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This is the final part of this article series which began with House Soiling and then continued with Urine Spraying. In this conclusion I will offer you some solutions to the cat urine smell problem.

Part Three – Solutions

When faced with this frustrating problem of your cat urinating inappropriately around your house, you may feel helpless. It will help if you learn more about this problem and how to stop it. You must understand that your cat is not doing this to be a nuisance to you or to make you angry. It is something that he has no control over as it is in the cats nature to do this for many reasons.

Firstly, if your cat hasn’t yet been spayed/neutered then you should get him done as soon as you possibly can. Cats can be spayed/neutered from the age of six months up. The earlier you get him done the better as you may avoid him/her displaying this behavior completely.

To clean up the urine spots naturally, you will need a mixture of 1/3 cup of white vinegar diluted in 2/3 cup warm water, 1/4 cup mouthwash (containing alcohol) and 1/4 cup of dish washing detergent. Let it stand for around 45 minutes. To read more about this method please refer to the article ‘Remove Cat Urine – Six Steps to Removing Cat Urine Smell’. Or if you prefer you can use any of the enzymatic cleaners and odor neutralizers that are available.

Supply each cat with his or her own litter box, each plus one additional litter box for the home. Daily cleaning of the litter boxes will help to cut down on the problem. Attempt, if you are able to, to discover the reason why your cat sprays. Perhaps a new person has moved into the home, if so, get him or her feed your cat, if possible, to establish a bond between them.

It’s a effective idea to play with your cat in the regions where it tends to spray.If your cat sprays in only one room keep him away from this room. If spraying happens in one or two particular areas and it is not possible to keep the cat out of this location, position a litter box or feeding bowls there. Just about all cats will not urinate around their food.If there is conflict between your cats, you might need to keep them apart, or at any rate the one which is spraying. Spray Feliway in all regions where your cat marks.

Don’t use regular household cleaning products containing ammonia for cleaning urine patches – you may find that it stimulates the marking behavior as urine also contains ammonia.

Don’t punish the cat by carting it to its litter box or sticking its nose in excrements and never hit it or kick it! As a matter of fact, you can cause issues to be a good deal worse. Your cat will then associate punishment with you and might become timid and distrusting towards you. You’ll make it feel insecure in the home and this will consequently contribute to even more spraying. If you catch your cat engaging in the behavior then you can endeavor to dissuade it by making a unpleasant noise or spraying water from a water gun or spray bottle, but in most cases this won’t stop the cat spraying in the future.

Lastly, as I said earlier, you should recognize that your cat isn’t doing this to upset you. There is always an inherent cause for its conduct that can be related to either physiological or psychological disturbances, or to a normal and natural behavior. If you’re not able to resolve the problem, don’t hesitate to seek advice from your veterinarian. Your vet will likely analyze urine samples for the presence of blood glucose, crystals or indications of infection and possibly will take some blood samples if there’s any indication of renal or hormonal troubles, or diabetes. If your cat is in good health, your vet will be able to talk over the most appropriate behavior therapy therapy and prescribe any medication if called for.

I wish you all the best with this problem. If you need more information on this subject I recommend you having a look at 18 Ways To Stop Cat Urine Odor

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Bought an old house and the basement is nothing more than a full basement with poured foundation, but it's home to 3 – 5 cats and reeks of cat urine.

am not sure a small nuke maybe…cat urine is powerful stuff

ps i did some looking around and found this
Forewarned is forearmed, what you need in your arsenal are the following items:

A black light – A black light with a fluorescent tube, not an incandescent tube is what you need. The black light will (when turned on in complete darkness) make cat pee glow bright yellow for new stains, and light yellow or even green for old stains.

Rubber gloves – Cat urine is caustic. You want to be wearing rubber gloves anytime you are removing cat urine.

Sponges – if you have cat pee on your floor or carpet, you have a cat that is either ill and can’t help herself from peeing wherever she may be, or she is stressed about something going on.

If you see your cat peeing on your rug or carpet, don’t shout at her and rush over to move to the litter pan. Simply grab an absorbent sponge and slide it under her, so most of the cat pee catches in the sponge.

Cat pee is very caustic and it travels quickly. If you can catch it before that happens, you are ahead of the game. That is why sponges come in handy in the battle of the cat pee.

Cloth diapers – these are the best as far as absorbent cloths go. Have a stack in your Combat Cat Pee Box.

Neutralizers – You need one of the following neutralizers: Anti-Icky Poo, Nature’s Miracle, Zero-Odor, or Urine-Off! These are all molecular-based neutralizers that break-down the enzymes in the urine, dissolving them completely and eradicating the smell. These are all products that I have used, and I know from experience that they work.

Feliway Spray – this is the finisher for cat urine odor. After the neutralizer has had a chance to work, Feliway Spray is applied to the area.

When it comes to tile floors, getting rid of cat urine is simple. Soak up the urine with an absorbent diaper, and then rinse with hot water and household cleaner. After that has dried, apply a neutralizer to the area to remove any lingering odor.

For carpets, cat urine is much more difficult to remove. Not only do you have to worry about the carpet fiber, but also the carpet backing and the padding which can quickly become saturated with cat pee resulting in bacteria, corrosion and mold.

First, blot up as much of the cat urine as you possibly can with the cloth diapers.

Next, apply the neutralizer. Make sure that you allow the solution to soak through. Give it about 5 minutes to sit on the stain, and then taking another cloth diaper blot the area gently. Continue blotting (not rubbing) the area until it is completely dry. You may have to repeat this process more than once.

Finally, spray the area with Feliway Spray and then cover the area with a thin sheet or blanket, weighted down for at least six hours.

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Stop Cat Urine Odor

 

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